ukrainian fashion week: larisa lobanova

(images via ufw)

not that this makes things any better, but i do want you to know i really am trying. opt has faced a momentary setback in recent weeks, in part because of my various health issues i regularly struggle with (so there’s a bit of insight for you) and in part because of my being required to attend my day job, something that hasn’t taken away from the site in the past, but is now. alas. and really, all of that is okay, but it leads up to me not being able to devote as much time, at least at present.

however! i remain fervent in my hopes that things will return on opt to normalcy soon, and in the meantime i’m unsure whether we’ll have to revert to fast-forward mode as we’ve done in the past, in order to catch up with some of our backlog, as i’m terribly afraid perhaps kiev’s ukrainian fashion week is quickly becoming. so i’ll keep you updated, but in the meantime, we’ll just try to continue on, sailing by with these faster-than-usual-but-not-full-on-sailing-through looks at some of our favourite designers.

anyway, with that grim opening, i’m now going to bring out the good news, which comes in the form that we’ll get to take a look at the stunning a/w 2013 range of one of ukraine’s particularly spicy designers, larisa lobanova (Ларисы Лобановой), who has been regularly entertaining us some seasons now (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) with her brilliant pieces that verge somewhere comfortably between conceptual art and the breezily wearable.

right, so. continuing on in that rather cool-hued vein she set forth for her spring collection, the designer’s fall range, according to the ufw site, “is a transformation of European folklore motifs into contemporary looks. The designer offered a fascinating pattern symbolizing the beauty of winter nature for her dresses and suits…The key notes of the collection are femininity, intellectual sexuality and restrained romanticism.”

meanwhile, explaining that the range was titled ‘winter’s story from beginning to end,’ the russian website unuj had a slightly different story, quoting the designer as stating that (trans.) “(i)n the patterns I wanted to show the Far North, the Scandinavian countries. The show even opens with a Baltic model.” we’ve seen a lot of different focused themes from ms. lobanova, sometimes zeroing in on a specific geographic region, so this seems fitting, and particularly in a winter show, non?

anyway, elsewhere, with some lovely close-up images of the prints, which included (natural-looking) snowflakes, winter-stripped tree branches, stripes, swirling curlicues, and ethnic-looking motifs (that i’m kind of wondering if she sourced from, say, the sami people, or are simply a part of her regular lineup, as she tends to like these black tribal-leaning graphics), the ukrainian site fashion blog pointed out that ms. lobanova decked out her collection with all the winter trappings, including mittens, boots, headgear and bits of fur (of course).

“The colour palette was dominated by black, white and brown, and diluted shades of fuchsia,” (trans.) noted the ukrainian site lady tch, although i think we should throw blue (and gray!) into this mix, as there was really quite a lot of it (again, as like last season), whilst adding that range materials included silk, leather, wool, lace, jersey, and georgette, as well as the aforementioned little bits of fur, as trims.

then finally, ever ones to probe the collections deeper than surface value, the ukrainian blog be in trend argued that the show followed through the stages of the winter, on through to the early spring, with the progression of the palette moving from white with bits of brown peeking through, to pure white (for the blankets of snow) on to the frozen tundra-type blues, and finally through to rich, chocolatey brown, meant to symbolize the soil breaking through, for the beginnings of the spring (or at least, the emergence of the idea of it).

but what i ultimately liked–as i tend to, all of her shows–is that we can get what we need to out of it. to be sure, if you’re looking for a more meaningful collection, here you’ll find it, but then, if you’re just seeking a fabulous winter wardrobe, complete with all the trappings (from trousers to dresses in a variety of lengths, to outerwear, some separates, and even accessories), you’ll be able to manage with that as well, and she’s also been doing a nicer job of slowing down her brand in recent seasons, allowing for more blending from season-to-season. i know i’m often wrong, but this time, i really, really hope i’m right in that this one is going to explode soon. i mean, after all, doesn’t she deserve it? (see some lovely additional images at anastasia-basilica)

(enjoy the complete show video here)


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