spfw: cori

(images via ffw)

while i tend to not personally be, like, as drawn to the labels that have a firm grounding in the active sportswear world (save maybe for y-3, and even then, you can’t really argue with me that you’re going to sweat up those pieces anytime soon), i would nevertheless admit that the brazilian label cori does a nice job executing on a vision that–if not, again, exactly meant to be spent in active pursuit of, say, tennis (s/s 2012) or equestrian (f/w 2012), we can probably still allow that if we were to ever do as much, we’d want to pursue it whilst dressed in cori’s clothes. and really, isn’t that what it’s all about?

right, then. so if i was expecting another clear illustration of a sporty day for the label’s s/s 2014 outing at são paulo fashion week, i was to be at least a little surprised, in that designer taciana menezes opted instead to get arty. although the general idea of ‘sports’ was still pushed in with the collection’s theme, it was in a much more abstract way than we’ve seen in the past, and in truth, i felt like we were viewing one of those headier maria bonita shows–at least, at times.

anyway, as the brazilian site pure trend explained during their pre-season preview (trans.), the designer drew on “(s)ports and the artwork of artist Henrique Oliveira. For this season, the brand Cori develops pieces with shapes close to the body, with cropped trousers and straight shirts, and dresses with ’20s silhouettes. The brand still [applies] cutouts and overlays [in the upcoming spring’s collection].”

elsewhere, quoting the designer as explaining she’d seen the artist’s work several times and couldn’t wait to use it as inspiration for a collection, elle added that (trans.) “(c)oming from Oliviera’s work were the graphics and colour palette filled with shades of white and off-white which combined with butter and lavender, raspberry, tangerine and watery green. On this basis, sports and tailoring meet. The result is pieces finished with wire, which refer to the rustic, with deep necklines and armholes.”

thus, it seems ms. menezes was definitely looking for a more rugged and less polished aesthetic than we’re used to chez cori (and really, i can’t help it, but aren’t you seeing maria bonita here? i’m just wondering if cori’s posh customer is going to like it. but perhaps i digress). well. anyway, according to the brazilian closet online (trans.), “(w)ith cuts [that were] straight and minimalist, the collection expanded with details for more strength in the inspiration. There were deep armholes and necklines as well.” so in other words, there was a lot more skin on display. uh uh uh, the country club ladies aren’t going to be liking that (but their daughters might, and perhaps that’s the point).

alors. as mentioned above, the palette was pretty monochromatic-driven, with a lot of pieces cast in a shade of fresh cream, whilst ffw related that range materials included silk, wool, heavy satin, linen canvas, and crepe, with (trans.) “multicoloured sequins” doing some glam work to embellish and, shall we say, club-ify several of the blingy minidresses that rounded out the conclusion of the show. well, then. i think we do understand just what sort are going to be doing the heavy lifting in terms of purchase power here.

finally, we heard vogue describing how we saw (trans.) “(t)unic-dresses, elongated t-shirts, jackets, blazers and white satin cigarette pants white satin with a dab of the print, which appeared…almost invisible. The second part of the parade was all white, with pieces that mixed varying textures (leather, silk weaving, linen) in different shades of white.” ultimately, i guess we could argue for the staple pieces that were here, point out that the glittery minidresses, or the tank worn by isabella melo, with the striped artist’s print spicing things up were charming and wearable, especially to styling young things. but it didn’t have the polish of cori’s yester-season, and i couldn’t help but feel we’d seen it all before. true, we had with the tennis and the riding themes, as well, but at least there was excitement, some verve. here it was, in the end just kind of, ‘meh, cute. NEXT!

(check out the final walk-through video here)


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