(images via ufw)
she’s not, like, our iukrainian fashion week designer, but nevertheless, we’ve seen nadya dzyak‘s (Надя Дзяк) work a few times in the past (see s/s 2011, s/s 2012, s/s 2013), and well enough to know that she tends to like her clothes full-on girlish and flirty, with ruffles, cut-outs and the like, so i’ve tended to always think of her more in that…yannow, chloé-style vein, but for her a/w 2013 presentation in kiev, the designer suddenly went more hipster-schoolgirl grows up, much more like something i’d expect out of proenza schouler (and particularly the prints from their a/w 2010 show).
well. in actuality, according to the ufw site, the playful girl ms. dyzak had long channeled appeared to go all earth-mother on us, with them informing us that the “collection is dedicated to natural sources giving birth to everything alive on the planet. The key idea is interaction of a man and natural combinations, of textures and shades…Architectural cut is [sic] combined with chunky knit, whereas combination of diverse elements and textures support the idea of interaction of Man and Nature.”
the ukrainian site lady tch reported that an (trans.) “(e)xclusive wood bark print has been designed for the display and was executed on silk and jersey,” while one of a couple of the ukrainian website hochu‘s analyses on the subject noted of the palette that (trans.) “(b)urgundy and emerald were connected in a single product, and the ground colours are, of course, classic black and white as the main palette…Traveling into [far-off] places inspired the designer to use Prussian blue tones and an amazing teal colour play.” yeow.
the pieces themselves, i’d say, were much more structured than we’ve seen of ms. dzyak in the past, certainly with a few of the flips and ruffles that we’d previously seen, though with the aquatic colours, i kept thinking of fins on fish and underwater vegetation, as they seemed to have that controlled movement, like things tend to far underwater. there was a lot of blocking, whether it be with colours or materials, and in addition to the lightweight materials listed above, i’d say there had to be some wool or wool-blend action going on, because some of the many minidresses possessed a stiffness not indicative of those more fluid options.
in terms of what we actually saw on the display, the creatively-named site (sorry, i had to) ukrainian fashion reported that (trans.) “wearable dresses, tapered skirts, jumpsuits, sheer blouses, [and] elongated capes, [featured] Basques, broad shoulders, and a little bit of volume. The designer joined architectural tailoring [and] knitwear.” on the whole, i’d argue that it was a nice advancement forward for the designer, and one could definitely see shades of the former girl, but just a little bit more grown up, much as the aforementioned proenza schouler was also doing for fall.
as i also think i hinted at, in hochu‘s other review, they noted that (trans.) “(t)he designer connects several kinds of fabrics and textures in a single look and complements several colours,” something we really hadn’t seen from her in the past, and i was surprised/pleased to see how well she was actually able to execute it here. this was a little more about going to work than clubbing/tea/picking up a hot new significant other, although thanks to some printed jumpsuits and a few trumpet hemmed frocks, maybe not entirely. so in the end, i think everyone should be pleased, and isn’t it a truly great day when we all go home happy? (see additional show images at jetsetter)
(check out the full fashion show video here)