spfw: triton

(images via ffw)

okay, so you can bitch me out alllllll you want, but having grown up in the san francisco area, i feel i have a stake in this. after seeing rodarte’s, erm, approximation, shall we say, of santa cruz with their a/w 2013 nyfw display that, erm, maybe didn’t go down all that well with opt, i’m going to risk the fashionies’ wrath by declaring that i was much more on board with brazilian label triton‘s celebration of the sf bay during their s/s 2014 são paulo fashion week showcase.

anyway, okay, so i think we all know that san francisco isn’t, like, this hippie flower child tie dyed city (or at least, anymore), if for no other reason than not too bloody many hippies can afford to live there, the rent is so high (just another reason to love oakland), and that maybe this imagining of the area was playing on the ecstasy and grateful dead music a little bit heavy, but then, we all know triton to be the kind of label to take things to the next cartoon-ified level (see their a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013, a/w 2013 work), so there you go!

but i guess what i am trying to convey was that the vibe was carefree, fun, and the clothes overall quite wearable, and if they’re not in the same, like, high art league rodarte fancies themselves to be, then still, i think they capture an idea of the region, or at least an idea period (or perhaps ideal would be better) in an enthusiastic, clear manner, without ever trying to push the youth and street culture whence this collection sprung into something they can sell back to us for four digits. and that, kids, i find intensely alluring.

right, so, once again, i’m sorry, but here i go blathering! shall we get to some of the specifics of our topic? right, then. so according to the brazilian website caras, for the upcoming summer (trans.) “(t)he main inspiration was born of the exciting landscapes of roads linking San Francisco to Las Vegas, while the four elements of nature (water, earth, fire and air) set the tone for the new season.”

and taking this a little bit further, elle chimed in that (trans.) “(o)n her mystical road (the theme of the collection was precisely this, Mystic Road), Karen Fuke transported the audience to the characteristic psychedelia of the 1970s and from there brought the citrus colours, the tie-dye and some touches of esotericism. The female portion of the collection was on account of flowery dresses with embroidery and soft peplums. Maxi dresses, asymmetric sleeves and rounded tops and jackets [were seen]…The rich texture work also deserves special attention this season, especially the tweed outfits with lightly transparent stripes.”

none-too-impressed (but then, they are exceedingly difficult to please), the brazilian website chic gloria kalil argued that we saw a (trans.) “mix of rave and urbanity,” whilst declaring that there was a “dizzying colour palette,” throwing that notion out as if it were a bad thing. and i’m much more on board with ffw‘s take, which astutely noted that creative director (trans.) “Karen is restless, smart and cool and does a great mix between her own references and the desires of young consumers of the brand and key trends prevailing at the time, which are important for a brand like Triton.”

*yeow. and i feel like it might just be an issue of whether you buy into this vibe (and it’s very generation-related, yannow?). but! nevertheless, ms. fuke took her pieces a little luxe as she worked in textiles such as organza, guipure lace, tulle, muslin, striped tweeds, and grosgrain silk, reported vogue, adding that these were thus turned into items like (trans.) “high-waisted shorts…and cigarette pants with vests and oversized blazers, sometimes with asymmetric cut detaisl, sometimes with elastic waists.”

then, finally, the normally insightful brazilian site closet online was there to offer that (trans.) “(n)eutral shades like black, white and khaki joined with strong and vibrant colours: pink, orange, green, purple and yellow in various flouro aspects. The prints ranged from artwork, ethnic, stripes and foliage…Tops with oversized shoulder pads bowed teamed with skirts and dresses with geometric cutouts. Another striking feature was the reading of the peplum, which now protrudes longer and bulkier in high-waisted pants.” i loved it! but again, it’s probably not for everyone, so take from it what you will. or not. the choice, after all, is yours (whatever otherwise the magazines might say).

(enjoy the catwalk video here)


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