ukrainian fashion week: julia aysina

(images via ufw)

for at least a few seasons now (see a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), we’ve been regularly checking in on the sophisticated work of designer julia aysina (Юлія Айсіна) whenever we stop by kiev’s ukrainian fashion week, and she’s definitely become one of my top names because, as i’ve often said, she regularly cranks out pieces that are both wearable and elegant at once, and seem invested in providing a stylish offering for women who’d like to look such without trying to pretend they’re ten years younger than they are, or convinced the only thing in life is producing thoughts of sexytimes in the minds of pretty much every person to encounter them on that given day.

in other terms, it’s not as though the designer leaves out pieces that make her customers appear beautiful or sexy–it’s just that she doesn’t allow these to be the ultimate goal of each of her shows, something a designer like, say, stella mccartney understands well (to use a more famous example; perhaps carolina herrera is more on-part with ms. aysina’s aesthetic, however). anyway, this time around the designer called how show ‘loom,’ with the ukrainian site edinstvennaya pointing out that it was replete with (trans.) “(c)lassic silhouettes, elegant and very sexy dresses, [and a] beautiful combination of fabrics.”

as they always tend to do, the ufw site featured a nice little synopsis of the fall offerings, noting that the “collection is created in noble classic style. Elegant, restrained and at the same time sexual suits, dresses and coats accentuating silhouette. Chunky-knit sweaters are combined with semi-transparent dresses and strict trousers.” as with most of the designer’s prior work, i’d say what attracted me here was that she prefers to present a collection that feels like a full wardrobe, trying to respond to all of the little needs a woman might have regarding her closet within the greater context of a specific theme in any given season.

anyway, because she likes to frame her palette with classic colours, and then go in for some specific, more vibrant splashes, i was expecting a lot more brights this time around, and was surprised that she kept it rather muted–black and gray were her main focal points, with only a little bit of cream and white spliced in with some scarlet at the ending for good measure. the ukrainian site viva explained that range materials included wool, silk, tweed, lace, and velvet.

they also went on to note that, because even in her quieter incarnations, this is julia asyina, after all, and she loves her glam factor, that fur trims, embroidery, and crystals were employed to give embellishment to the pieces, while the models sported some fairly serious pieces of jewelry, from rather byzantine-looking crosses dangling from necklaces to decorative neck tassles, and strings of glittering beads strung pinned along the front of a sweater. the shoes and boots were apparently a new talking point for her, and i liked the elbow-length elegant leather gloves.

but! perhaps i’m digressing on these little notes and we should actually get to the clothes themselves! well. the site ukrainian fashion argued that there was very little new here, and in a sense i suppose one could say that’s true. i mean, to be sure, one kind of knows what they’re getting going in, with a lot of tailored trousers, plenty of lacy tops and blouses (and maybe a skirt or two) hinting seductively at what lies underneath whilst never giving it all away, and the kind of smart pencil skirts and day dresses that could easily be worn to the office, all topped off with some ridiculously lovely (if on the conservative side) evening gowns, plus a few varying ideas depending upon season.

and yet, if that’s her formula, i’m not sure i can see anything wrong with it–i’m sure the designer realizes that women need to replace these staples from season to season, and she checks in with relevant colours and details (here the red, the capes and trenches, the hints of moody romanticism) for the season at hand, all the while keeping it in check with her core customer, remembering that this all must be seen through the lenses of a girl over thirty (or perhaps over forty, as i tend to think of the ideal julia aysina customer). and in truth, each season she gets me wanting pieces anew.

and so, on the deeper analysis side of things, the ukrainian blog be in trend argued that the designer’s girl for fall (trans.) “became more mature and serious, but remained devoid of natural sexuality and inner strength. Moderately strong, but elegant and very feminine ensembles are the most eloquent proof of the internal changes of the heroine. Extensive high-waisted formal trousers, elongated jackets, knee-length dresses and skirts, long-sleeved overalls, and dresses and sweaters made ​​from thin translucent mohair – all is a harmonious completion of the new understatement.” so it is, and nicely said. and once again, even though i’m not, ms. aysina makes me want to be her girl as i’m looking at her work. and i think that ultimately tells everything one needs to know.

(view the full fashion show video here)


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