(images via ffw)
okay, so let me slam out the updates, because i think you’re going to be a bit shocked. first of all, yes, as i’ve forewarned, yes, we have many, many new fashion events (and shows!) to cover, and just like that, those kids at são paulo fashion week have apparently decided that in lieu of us focusing on them all but entirely during the month of june, they’d mix things up by tossing themselves in with too many bloody other kids mid-march. so here we are!
and then…here’s for the shocking part (hold your breath): before, when they represented the kind of beginning of a particular season, now, as they stand in the midst of all the fall shows, these crrrazy brazilian kids are down to celebrating s/s 2014. yeah, you read that right. are you feeling old yet? and no, don’t bother trying to point out the north-south divide as to flip of seasons. it worked out well before, but then, here we are all the same.
so with that, as i’m now trying to do instead of waiting it out with some of the top shows, it seems like the right thing to do to start things off with a blast. and so, animale, that label that likes to show sexay times print (florals, animal motifs) and plenty of colour, but in a refined manner that regularly manages to keep the art hand in the equation (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013, a/w 2013), will help us open up the–yes, i still can scare believe it–s/s 2014 season.
right, so. this time around, designer priscilla darolt for the upcoming spring drew on the island of bali for inspiration, with harper’s bazaar explaining that we saw (trans.) “dresses with prints of fauna, flora and Balinese masks at Animale. Complete with soft draping and feminine [elements], the production is ready to face the summer.” and so it was, feeling more airy, tropical and lightweight than sexy this time around (though of course the girls looked goooood, as per the norm).
anyway, vogue opted to get a little more descriptive, writing that (trans.) “(w)ith unusual cuts, asymmetry and a lot of transparency, the brand showed freshness and the minimum of sensuality required. It is not easy playing chess, a very strong trend in the Northern Hemisphere, so it was shrewd…[of] Priscilla Darolt. Dresses were well designed with cutouts which made the interesting collection light and delicious to wear. Even if the inspiration has been Bali, the resort atmosphere was a well prepared mix, perfect for urban scenes – without losing the desired lifestyle. Perfect for Brazilian women.”
or a whole lot of others who like to channel the brazilian (miami, australian, et.al.) lifestyle, non? anyway, elsewhere, elle described the mix of prints the designer employed, for the aforementioned florals and wildlife of bali to the chessboard motifs and checks that sprawled across many of the other pieces, whilst adding that (trans.) “(p)antsuits, vests and deconstructed jumpsuits also stood out among fluid dresses.”
the spring range materials, related ffw, included metallics, silk mesh, knitwear, leather, double-sided silk, and linen, as they added that the sprightly colour palette (and here i’m almost at a loss, considering that we’ve just been tracing which, exactly, are going to be to the top shades for fall; are we going to get them mixed up, alas?) was defined in (trans.) “(b)lack and white, olive, turquoise, coral, pink, purple and wine.”
interestingly, their little review carried on to relay that (again, trans.) “(t)he pieces bring prints (the beautiful floral)s, clippings, drapes, vents, zippers and embroidery [together] and still carry a light and feminine spirit for summer. ‘The idea came from the batik on a street with many shops we visited there,’ says Priscilla on one of the techniques that dominate the collection. Embroidery and the mixture of textures also marks the work, especially the leather and metallic knits, embroidered with dyed guitar strings.”
really, though, i think that’s what makes ms. darolt so special as a designer–like some of the more mainstream favourites in, say, paris, she’s able to assemble many different (and sometimes even disparate) ideas into a single collection, juggling them all tenderly together so that they mesh in a way that makes sense; and rather than styling, it becomes about actual design (although if i am allowed to venture a critique, it would be that a few of the pale plaid dresses reminded me a little closely of fernanda yamamoto’s s/s 2011 work, but nevermind, i still loved it). oh, and although we really should be off, the brazilian site closet online, as ever, has an excellent review and you should probably check it out. and i’m glad pretty much everyone loved this show much as i did. what an exciting way to set off spfw, non?!
(watch the final walk-through video here)