ukrainian fashion week: domanoff

(images via ufw)

i either loved or hated the ukrainian label domanoff‘s f/w 2013 show at kiev’s ukrainian fashion week in extremes regarding the individual looks, and at times that made me wonder if we should really be addressing it here on opt, but do you know what? we make a commitment to cover those houses we have in the past, regardless of opinions on a particular collection (for consistency, i figure), and as we’ve seen their work a couple of times before (s/s 2012 & s/s 2013), here we are kids. so here we go.

i guess one of the things that tended to bother me was that even though some of the looks–such as an impeccably-tailored pair of cropped stovepipe trousers worn with a strapless black corset and architectural blazer featuring little points along the hem of the bodice–were compelling, lovely, and impressively constructed, the plotline of the show didn’t appear to run that deep, and the concept didn’t appear to totally explain it, whatever we heard of lady tochka informing us that the designers went around announcing that (trans.) “clothing must have a soul.” yeah, okay, but where did those half-police, half-riding helmets fit into the grand scheme of things?

well. according to the ufw site, the “collection is a mix of Oriental and Western cultures, epochs, femininity and strictness, romanticism and classics. Due to complicated combination of fabrics and textures, in spite of strict lines and silhouettes, the collection leaves the feeling of transparence and weightlessness,” as be in trend related that the (trans.) “collection was dominated by black, diluted patches of different shades of beige, warm mustard, deep blue and silver. In the image of a strong woman, a sort of a modern Amazon realizing the power of her appeal, but not devoid of intellectual depth, the designers created…maxi-length, form-fitting straight silhouettes and fabrics combined with different textural effects.”

so…maybe i’m just not getting it? i honestly don’t know. or maybe i’m just not feeling some of the looks, which bit went on to describe as (trans.) “(a)long with strict architectural elements, there were dresses made of thick fabric with accented shoulders, short jackets in rigid forms, and leather shorts and trousers, while the collection also contains more feminine things, with sexiness emphasized – floor-length skintight dresses, using transparent flying fabrics, leather inserts and lace.” and the site ukrainian fashion argued that the overall aesthetic was heavy and dark (trans.) “but at the same time transparent and weightless.”

collection materials consisted of leather, metallics, the aforementioned lace, and chiffon, and i suppose ultimately we can probably agree that there were some good classic pieces here, and maybe some of my discomfort that the whole thing didn’t really, like, ‘flow’ that nicely is probably down to the fact that the styling was a bit, like, ‘off.’ i will also say that the construction was a bit iffy–at times almost miraculous, and at others (mostly the metallic moments, so again, this may be a specific, in this case, textile, issue) not too bloody impressive–which lead to my on-the-whole ‘meh’ sort of response, but i will say that on the whole, it kept my interest, and these days, that’s more of an accomplishment than not, right? (see some lovely additional images at anastasia-basilica)

(enjoy the full runway show video here)


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