ukrainian fashion week: ds’dress by alonova

(images via ufw)

so as a little bit of a programming note, i’m sorry if opt is running kind of slow, but i’ve not been well (constantly fighting le sicks, it seems), and rather than simply taking off, i’d prefer to just keep opt going, albeit at a slower capacity, maybe for a couple of days. but! we’re not going to leave off just yet of our newfound coverage of kiev’s ukrainian fashion week, even if we are giving most of our attention to paris, and with that we’ll now turn to the ds’ dress by alonova f/w 2013 range!

anyway, we’ve been following designer olga alonova (Ольга Альонова) and her label since they turned up on the scene at ufw (see s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013), and although the first couple of collections felt to me more like a girl who loved clothes trying to mimic all of her favourite styles, with last season’s show, i felt as though the designer had suddenly turned a corner, proving a more complete, thoughtful wardrobe that expanded into coordinating separates (and beyond dresses) in a manner that was really quite impressive, and she following that quality up once more with her winter collection.

this time around, again, dresses felt to be much less the focus, with the ukrainian site buro 24/7 pointing out that we swaw (trans.) “monochrome straight cut coats, leather tops, blouses with graphic prints, and bulky knit sweaters paired with tapering trousers.” she worked the giant chubby furs, as practically everyone in paris did this season, and picked up on one of london’s key colours–burgundy–and although her palette tended to be classic-to-dark (black, cream, indigo, beige), we did get to see a flash of her former carefree days, thanks to a bubblegum pink to add spice, looking surprisingly elegant in a long, carefully blocked (for just a bit of shine) demure scoop-necked evening gown.

in terms of inspirational background, the ufw site informed us that “the theme of fashionable geometry [was] inspired by modern city architecture, and Bauhaus style in particular,” as lady tochka chimed in that (trans.) “(t)he result of this inspiration [includes] oversize-coat layers (like a skirt over trousers), geometric cuts and prints.”  and the site ukrainian fashion was alllll about those jaunty fedoras, which they termed (trans.) “lawless,” which of course had me thinking of the prohibition-era days of machine gun kelly, creepy karpis, pretty boy floyd, and machine gun jack mcgurn (we know what weapons these dudes like, non?) and the like. but sorry! i digress!

right, so. the ukrainian blog be in trend explained that range materials included the aforementioned furs, leather, tweed, wool, and jacquards, while going on to bring up the interesting point (as they usually do) that the designer straddled a line between classic luxury and something more adventurous, which we could probably easily break down along those aforementioned palette lines–like maybe the cabernet-hued furs aren’t going to be flying as quickly, as say, the pretty little geometric-print shift dresses, or the classic wool coats, but then, who knows? i didn’t think a lot of women would be wanting leather blouses, but then…here we are.

so in the end, trends of the show included the layering (of course, as in so many other houses), blocking of both solid colours and fabrics, and sculptural, architectural cuts of line, which usually resulted in hems having a little ‘bite’ taken out of them, or corset-type tops (or just the plain leather shirts, as well) featuring some kind of almost origami-like touches to the silhouettes, for a more geometric shape of line, while the designer definitely favoured cut-outs into her hems of skirts and dresses (and tops!) as well. it was certainly a grown-up effort, and one that was greatly appreciated by me, as she just seems to be getting exponentially better. sometimes i’m kind of sorry we began to start covering a label, but here, things have only gotten more exciting with the pass of each season (check out some nice additional backstage images at the ukrainian fashion blog).

(see the full collection video here)

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