bafw: coragroppo

(images via paperblog)

so despite the fact we’re maybe not, like, always on top of what argentine label coragroppo is up to, i can also easily tell you that i’ve pretty much loved the complex ideas and executions from designer cora groppo of every collection we’ve seen in the past (see f/w 2010, f/w 2011, s/s 2012), and have thus tended to be pleased whenever i heard there was a new collection of those sporty/layered/sexy dresses and their complementary asymmetrical jackets and skinny trousers. but! for the f/w 2013 exhibition at buenos aires fashion week, i wasn’t so sure.

although i’ll grant that, once again, the designer took on some interesting animal analogy (as she tends to prefer to do), it read to me as a lot flatter, and a lot more like the basic riding clothes we’ve seen plenty of in recent seasons. titled ‘girl rhino,’ the bafw site explains that (trans.) “(t)he new study comes from the observation of the rhinoceros, horses and crocodile. During this process of observation they appear in different shapes, textures, and finally outlining a single character. The animal that ends up gaining more strength and prominence during the process is rhino, hooded girls appear as a rhinoceros, and as a modern urban girl. The hood appears in a playful way, becoming a warrior protection species, resulting in a rhino girl.”

which is all well and good on paper, but save for those spiky-looking hood pieces the models sported, i’m not sure those straightforward black/gray jackets and lean pants, motorcycle-esque jackets, and chunky knit cardigans actually tell us anything new. well. planeta mujer did try to give us some extra insight by explaining that the textures were carefully chosen in the textiles, to mimic the animals’ skins, and utilizing print work, knitwear, and plenty of leather, the house was able to transmit some of the animals’ power or something, and i guess that’s interesting, but ultimately…i just don’t think that really translates onto the runway.

alors. in the end, i think we can all agree that the range will probably sell well, and in one of my more benevolent moments, i can probably grant that there were at lot of classic options at play, or layering items that (whatever the actual tiredness of us having seen them seasons on end), there are probably still scores of girls out there wanting. so there’s that, plus the kudos to the house for trying something new. we can’t discount that, and i’d always rather see a new idea that takes a risk and fails than a dull one, and i’m sure coragroppo won’t be down for long. so then, there’s that, too.

(see some video action here)


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