ukrainian fashion week: liliya litkovskaya

(images via ufw)

oh my, so let me tell you after so many weeks of being spoiled with the major fashion shows, it’s kind of a shock to come back to reality and realize we’ve so much work to do ourselves! and so, let me throw in a couple of programming notes here. first, yes, we’re on to the subject of kiev’s ukrainian fashion week, and caught up as we are on most things, i’m hoping that we can remain so, but opt’s focus, just the same, will remain paris fashion week for a few days, until we can finish up with that and move on to the onslaught of global fashion that’s rising up just before us.

and so! with that out of the way, i’ll ask you to turn your attention now to the ukrainian designer liliya litkovskaya (Ліля Літковська), and her a/w 2013 range presented in kiev! and although–blunt as always–we’ve probably in truth looked at more single images of her work than actually held full-on discussions (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), but frankly i don’t know why, as i was fixing some broken images on pages dealing with her earlier work, and i was completely enthralled. i mean, with all of this smart minimalism (which is especially timely right now), what’s not to love?

well. anyway, providing one of their nice little write-ups on the subject, the ufw site informed us that the “collection is ‘An imagined dialogue of Marlene Dietrich and Patti Smith’, symbolizing the unity of man’s and woman’s beginings, symbolizing power and pragmatism, sensuality and openness. LITKOVSKAYA returns to classic trouser suits, citing fashion of the 40’s and combining waistcoats with accentuated silhouettes and massive shoulders, voluminous trousers with hypertrophied turn-ups.” so that’s where the ann demeulemeester flavour came in, then.

this season the designer, the site ukrainian fashion pointed out (trans.) “is dominated by the classic Litkovskaya monochrome and various shades of gray. All this austerity was shaded with spots and blotches of blue and emerald green.” we saw some pinstripes and a splash of the leopard print i suppose they were alluding to there, as well as a bit of navy, but on the whole black and white ran the day, as indeed, the designer prefers, while her textiles were of course heavy of the wool, as well as featuring mohair, leather, and silk.

and, interestingly enough, with some of her fabric blocking and those asymmetrical cuts that resulted in a cascade of silky fabric, i was reminded of the christian dior s/s 2013 collection, which featured some similar cuts, and could very well have been the impetus here. anyway, the ukrainian site viva pointed out that (trans.) “(l)aconic, austere cut coats, trouser suits, free silhouette dresses – nothing should constrain movements. Striped suits with wide trousers, [and] silk jumpsuits,” were among some of the many pieces that were on display, all of which (ironically) conform to much of what we saw chez dior, although admittedly on the whole there was a distinctly punk feeling here.

finally, courtesy of one of our favourite sources for analysing ukrainian fashion, the blog be in trend argued that this season’s (trans.) “feminine image looks powerful, measured, relaxed, elegant and slightly bohemian. The pantsuit at the heart of the collection makes all the other parts to resonate with each other. Trousers combined with long tops, one complements the other in volume, while the wide trousers and voluminous jackets were amazing combinations with the frankly massive shoes on thick platforms. Creepers, combined with strict dress – a new Litkovskaya in cocktail dress code.” and so it is. welcome home to kiev!

(see the full fashion show video here)


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