(images via wwd)
so i really don’t care what anyone says, i’m still insisting on covering the work of the promising young designer nicolas andreas taralis, as i’ve regularly found his collections (see s/s 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) some of the more compelling in that dark, moody vein (yannow, the one that ann demeulemeester and rick owens dominate), and however much the popular kids want to hold out and protest that gareth pugh is the most talented, i’m finding mr. taralis’ work more compelling, more believable in its deep, lovely despair.
he likes to toy with a science fiction edge, but that amounts a lot to the styling, and for the a/w 2013 season at paris fashion week, the designer made a nice turn in the realm of addressing a more work-able wardrobe, with some gorgeous, tailored wool coats and trenches served alongside some of his standard more angst-ridden slouchy separates (although i honestly wouldn’t mind if he left off on the baggy jean-type trousers a little), and even a swooping evening gown in a particularly morosely beautiful shade of plum.
those…were they crowns? halos? constructed by jeweler nora renaud were exceptionally compelling, and did a nice job of advancing the sort of ‘alien queen’ look about the collection without necessarily pushing it into costume territory, which made for a nice step, and the kind of decision i’d think mr. pugh could learn from (not that he will, particularly with all the love he’s getting, while mr. taralis languishes a bit, sigh). and while maybe the strappy boots and capes were on the ‘much’ side for those not, like, hardcore fans of the above-mentioned ms. demeulemeester, i’d certainly argue most of those cerulean blue and navy separates could find their way into the ‘everygirl’ wardrobe.
ah, well, so. are you ready for the critiques? because you know they’re going to be harsh. there’s nothing the critics hate more than an undiscovered, un-fashionie-approved goth-leaning designer, so they usually fully feel the right to assert their claws here. so hold your breath, because we’re goin’ in. “Backstage,” wrote style, “Nicolas Andreas Taralis was of more than one mind: ‘Is she strong or soft? Punk or uptown? She’s a little bit lost, a bit all over the place,’ he said. It wasn’t as discombobulated as all that on the runway. In fact, it was pretty standard stuff for Taralis. Mostly black, with some unexpected hits of indigo blue; edgy urban tailoring juxtaposed with witchy draped tops and a single evening dress; sheer fabrics and raw edges conveying the undone, unfinished quality he prefers.”
“Taralis himself isn’t lost, but he does seem to be languishing a bit,” they prattled on (see there?) “There were pieces worth calling out here—leather hemmed coats on the strict side and, among the slouchier stuff, a biker jacket with sleeves pushed up past the elbows. Still, he needs to hit the ‘go’ button, or risk even his longtime supporters drifting off. The indigo pieces suggest a way forward. We’ve never thought of him as a colorist, but a wool felt dress with a heavy industrial zip coiling around the torso that came in a midnight blue on top and Yves Klein blue below the waist proved us wrong.”
meanwhile, according to elle (trans.), “(t)he designer has proved once more that he has dark minimalist control. Creations. Long black jackets, leather pants, but also sets including electric blue jackets. The parts are bent or larger and fluids, the proportions are always impeccably calculated.…In Final Analysis. The collection is mastered, with the attention to detail. We particularly liked the atmosphere during the boom end with the slow light balls and the languid aspect.”
and, finally, caught somewhere between the two, there was wwd, weighing in that “Nicolas Andreas Taralis continued on his Gothic trajectory with androgynous silhouettes again dominating the runway. One-shoulder ponchos, along with belts hanging loose from the waist or strapped around the thigh, telegraphed a Mad Max-type vibe. Stronger pieces included a series of knee-length felt coats in violet, blue, black and gray with leather elements or zippers running across the chest and up the side. As some of the silhouettes looked familiar, it seems that Taralis is still working to find his own voice.” so there you go, and take what you will, but again, i don’t care. i loved it. as usual.