(images via wwd)
so all the news that’s fit to print is that, yes, once again, opt has found itself well behind on the ‘keeping up with the fashion events’ portion of life, otherwise known as basically every day in the rotation of this site, and whatever i can blame it on, in programming notes what that boils down to is that while i don’t want to exactly put us in fast-forward mode, i think we’ll nevertheless be taking less in-depth looks than we generally tend to, okay?
right, so i like to balance out the bad news with some good, and this comes in the form of the a/w 2013 japan fashion week presentation of g.v.g.v. (ジーヴィージーヴィー), the house headed up by one-name designer mug, and her regularly rockabilly-retro-loving-fifties-kitsch aesthetic that we’ve grown to increasingly love over the seasons (see a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), taking another colourful turn through tokyo.
i tend to find (from my own perspective, at least) mug’s designs for spring a little more palatable, they with their softer colour schemes and prettier, lighter, more playful touches being a little more in-step with the kind of straight-up vintage-isms which i so love, but for the fall, she seems to appreciate the darker colours blended with plenty of shiny action, for a vibe that rides off a little more angsty and rebellious, a little more punk.
anyway, in actuality, this meant a lot of rockabilly/punk loving turns once more, from leopard spots and houndstooth to hipster plaids and pin-up-type girl graphics folded in with a bit of an s&m twist (and of course those shiny straps helped play up that matter pretty significantly, as well), alongside classic black-and-white combos, stripes, and and sexay times (faux?) fur moments, as well as a couple of fetishistic turns on the french maid costume (masked, no less!) to close out the show.
(check out the full fashion show video here)
paris fashion week: glenn martens
melbourne fashion festival: josh goot
interview germany: franzi mueller, march 2013
(images via ffw)
are you ready for some general pleasantries of insanity? that’s kind of how i always feel when we’re taking in another (see f/w 2011, s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013) são paulo fashion week amapô show, like we’re somehow seeing what happens if one took all of those basically cute/trendy pieces off the, say, h&m shelves and stuck them together with a highly conceptual-type artist’s bits-and-bobs, rendering creations that fall somewhere between charmingly quirky and full-on, like, whaaat? and this, children, was where we indeed were for the upcoming s/s 2014 (yes, you heard right there) season.
in brief, because we don’t have much time, the label played up on that under the ocean-thing that’s been going around a few seasons now, with the blog rotina da moda explaining that the spring range was titled ‘warrior sirens,’ as elle added that there was plenty of aquatic texture at play, while (trans.) “(t)he colour chart followed the aquatic mood, with shades of green and blue, some psychedelic prints and even a disguised ethnic climate.”
but! because we really shouldn’t confuse amapô with a brand that’s just trying to be edgy (in that i do firmly believe they are thinking deeper), the brazilian site chic gloria kalil pointed out that the ocean themes ran into the rather thoughtful, as the designers (trans.) “applied a holographic treatment on denim or jeans, leaving them pearly, and an effect of irregular devorê velvet, from the idea of coral.” i do think that’s quite clever, while some of those knit-y/stringy dresses rather resembled seaweed or kelp, and if the brand’s never going to be like full-on commercial, then that’s the fun of it–seeing what you can get out of it, and asking one to be a little more adventurous in the meantime.
(check out the fashion show video here)
moscow fashion week: sergey sysoev
paris fashion week: andrew gn
vogue paris: karlie kloss, march 2013
(images via ufw)
so quite honestly, i kind of have mixed feelings about this one, but then, what are you going to do? while in the past (see s/s 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012) i’ve acknowledged that, er, shall we say, conceptual designer aleksey zalevskiy (Алексей Залевский) has had his brilliant moments while presenting his wares at kiev’s ukrainian fashion week, but then, there too are those times i kind of get that feeling he’s just trying to be weird for the sake of it, with less actual meaning behind the images than i like to see from designers trying to push the sartorial boundaries.
right, so. for the upcoming a/w 2013 season, though i’ll certainly not deny there were some blatant moments of silliness, i’ll all the same acknowledge that there were definitely some other, decent exits from the designer, who really did appear to be trying to balance the two dueling sides of himself. but that didn’t mean he didn’t try to go, like, full-on vivienne westwood, with his models emerging along a runway strewn with what looked to be shipping boxes and their internal packing debris, the ukrainian site like arguing that (trans.) “(t)hus the designer paid attention to environmental issues.” oh, sigh. i mean, it’s a decent idea, but why do i feel he’s mostly posturing here?
ahem. anyway, in terms of his inspiration for the clothes, the ukrainian website hochu explained that mr. zalevskiy drew on the paintings of artist gustav klimt, adding that (trans.) “(a)mong the boxes and recycled paper, models were dressed in cardboard wigs: boys and girls showed suits made in Klimt’s characteristic blue and yellow colour scheme. The main emphasis was placed on the prints, based on the works of the artist, and Zalewskiy’s favourite part – the fur jackets and coats. At the end of the show, guests saw a wedding dress made of paper. The designer hinted in his show that things like works of art can be stored in museums, and in dressing rooms at the same time as they clog our space as debris.”
meanwhile, the site ukrainian fashion argued that there was a certain ‘royal’ idea underlying all the rest of the pomp and ceremony, pointing out that materials such as the aforementioned fur, cotton, silk, lace, knitwear, and velvet helped lux-ify the offerings, while as to palette they stated that (trans.) “(o)f the colours, blue can be distinguished clearly and different variations of gray – from silver to mouse.” and sometimes things felt to be clearly flowing here, while at others…just not so much. maybe it was all the interplay of textures and the busy quality going on in a relatively short show, but i found it a little difficult to, like, aesthetically link all of the looks.
anyway, the ufw site related that at least one of the designer’s prints was based on paper (whatever exactly that’s supposed to mean), while the excellent ukrainian blog be in trend was a little more impressed with the theme than i, probing into its depth. and i suppose maybe, like, you can be there (and by all means, go and read their argument!), but as one who is here first and foremost for the clothes, i’m just not sure he didn’t have too much flotsam floating around onstage, while the pieces themselves suffered, because they didn’t have narrow enough focus. to be sure, i loved the more clearly klimt-esque looks, such as a broad-lapeled dark denim-y blue geometric-printed coat, but there weren’t enough of those moments, particularly when some of the others (fur, lacy options) seemed sort of…just tossed on to make more ‘stuff.’ kind of belies the point of the show then, non?
(check out the collection video here)