(images via ufw)
oh, my, wow. what a difference a season or two makes, no? and over the course of just a few, we’ve seen the georgian label anouki bicholla transform practically before our eyes. showing at ukrainian fashion week in kiev back during the f/w 2011 season, they showed promise, but at times seemed more interested in causing a commotion than they did with revolutionizing us through design, and although for the f/w 2012 season, i will grant that they were trying, and sometimes (usually in the more minimalist looks) even nailed it, the overall thrust still came off on the theatrical side. but for s/s 2013….
designers anouk areshidze and bicholla tetradze kept up on the vintage leanings they went for in their fall collection, though they brought it out in a much stronger respect for spring, with both the ukrainian fashion channel and the ukrainian site delfi woman confirming that the 1950’s served as their inspiration (as if it wasn’t already clear enough). it would be easy to toss about many of the buzzwords and movie star names associated with this era, but on the other hand, i wouldn’t want to push that ‘old hollywood’ concept too strongly, because the designers wisely didn’t make the collection an homage, and did incorporate some of their signature risky moves.
however, where in the other collections, these could read as gratuitous, because they grounded their theme in something so familiar, so popular the world over, it seemed easier for them to depart from it, and take some stylistic risks that—mostly, at least—paid off. calling the range (trans.) “feminine [and] elegant,” dosugua pointed to elements like “sexy outfits, (s)hapely silhouettes, [and] transparent fabrics,” to which i’d like to add a light (light, light, light) touch of fetish, thanks to some slice-y looking cut-outs, and a few bondage-esque strappy bra tops (as second from bottom), though they were of course anchored in the pretty nipped-waist, full-skirted ‘new look’-style frocks, demure high necks (in some occasions), and sweet little sweaters.
elsewhere, the site lux lux reflected that (trans.) “(b)ras, basques, pants with pockets, rich decor ruffles at the hips, flared skirt with tulle ruffles, jackets and trousers with cut-outs also gave the image of sex appeal,” and the ukrainian website hochu listed the range materials as including the aforementioned tulle, cotton, organza, and guipure lace, crafted in a lovely spring-like (but not too much so that the clothes couldn’t do a little double-season duty) palette of wedgewood blue, bright white, lemon, black, slate, powder blue, and pale rose yellow, with most of the embellishments coming in the form of fabric textures, although there were some little dainty star motifs (as below), though i preferred the mostly monochromatic pieces, as they allowed us to focus on the superior construction, and just how far the brand has come.
finally, for their take on the spring presentation, the oft-thoughtful ukrainian blog be in trend noted that (trans.) “(t)hin delicate lace tops, bustiers, basques, narrow waist and midi skirts, transparency, complex multilayer silhouettes… – an incredible mix, resulting in a refined…collection. It is a harmonious combination of contradictory elements and techniques: the ‘bare’ simple transparency, elegant evening dresses and a sumptuous manner, this same transparency in black, tightly buttoned blouses, tank tops, and bustiers in fabulous architectural design completed with a puritanical skirt and hat, made for the best traditions of the British lady.” and so they were right. really, the designers have come a looong way, and i’ve never seen them better. let’s hope this is where they stay, and that we see some more smart collections in this vein, before they try to be controversial or flashy once again. sometimes the biggest scene one can cause is by doing a good job. i’ll certainly remember this one long beyond the big hair and overdone clown makeup of their f/w 2011 range (see additional images at be in trend)/
(view the full show video here)
oneporktaco 