(images via ufw)
vladimir podolyan (Владимир Подолян) represents yet another mysterious sort, arriving out of the fog at the fall 2011 ukrainian shows in kiev. the soe information i was able to find is simply that he founded the label atelier 1 with liliya poustovit, after having been discovered in an emerging designer’s competition. dashing, no?
largely framed in drab colours such as beige, olive, gray, and black, the designer’s range was an impressive blend of avant garde creations that were still quite wearable, with drapes or details in odd places to distinguish them. occasionally using pieces of what looked to be scrap metal in his designs as well as often pairing them with well-worn work boots, mr. podolyan’s girls had a sharp edginess, like factory workers trying to spice up their bland clothing through unexpected details and incorporated tailoring.
like many of his fellow designers, mr. podolyan straddles a sort of japanese-meets-euro aesthetic, which many of the ukrainian designers have done—combining the hip qualities of the likes of yamamoto, watanabe, and some of those presenting at tokyo fashion week with the superb draping/tailoring skills of european-based lables such as rick owens and haider ackermann. although a little strange (and perhaps too slick and streetwise) for many westerners, it will forever puzzle me that kiev is not considered more of a major fashion city. it’s killing me not to own all of these pieces and the fact that most of my friends haven’t heard of vladimir podolyan (thus can’t wear it to the same party) only makes it more intriguing.
updated: with new images