couture week: valentino

(images via style)

although i am one to always keep my copy of lolita close at hand, it was feeling uncomfortably hard pressing against my arm as i perused the latest valentino f/w 2010 couture images. 

yes, you guessed it, the collection was once again inspired by the very young, this time manifesting with sculpted crinoline numbers, bows, baby pinks, and plenty of sheers. 

as cathy horyn of the nyt put it, “The designers like fragility, though it obviously flatters only certain bodies…while one wants to see young clothes, a lot of their ideas have looked immature.” 

she also mentioned that the clothes were “(t)oo short, too girlish, too annoyingly fragile” for elizabeth hurley, who attended the show.  and she’s right.  this isn’t a collection for the valentino woman of five years ago.  

however, she was right in something else: this was the new designers’ best show so far.  they did pay tribute to the heritage, with their florals & bows, even if it wasn’t the type we’re used to.  and it didn’t seem to be trying so impossibly hard. 

although i know their recent ad campaign, featuring side by side shots of the models naked & clothed has been drawing some criticism, i rather like it.  it has a little bite, but isn’t too daring.  so they’re not always off on the wrong path. 

the problem is a need to focus, to center on exactly whom they are designing for.  and it isn’t the models themselves, unless they like the idea of giving away masses of free clothing. 

as i’ve said before, ladies finally at the age (and point in their careers, or, realistically, not) to be dressing themselves in valentino in a major way by and large are interested in revisiting their youth, but usually not as far back as the years when they still took ballet class & played with dollhouses.  however, the dress below is a nice gateway to that understanding. 

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